Yusheng, also known by its Cantonese name Lohei, is a traditional Lunar New Year dish that is distinctly Southeast Asian.

The colorful dish, which is made of shredded vegetables, raw fish, and a variety of condiments, has become synonymous with wishes for prosperity and good fortune.

Yusheng is believed to have originated in either Malaysia or Singapore, making it a unique culinary tradition largely confined to the Chinese communities in these two countries, unlike other Chinese diasporas worldwide.

While not one of the 12 traditional zodiac animals, the fish takes on a prominent role as a symbol of the Lunar New Year.

Luck of the fish

A stroll through Lunar New Year markets and shops will reveal a wealth of fish-themed goods, from fish-shaped biscuits to banners adorned with images of fish. In fact, yusheng itself literally translates to “fish-sound”.

In Mandarin, the word for fish, pronounced “yu“, sounds similar to another word that loosely means an increase in material wealth. This similarity in pronunciation has led to the fish becoming a symbol of prosperity and good fortune, especially during Lunar New Year celebrations.

How to make yusheng

Yusheng is a salad composed of multiple ingredients, most importantly raw fish, as the name suggests.

To make it, bring together shredded vegetables like carrots, daikon radish, cucumber, and white radish on a large platter. Add thinly sliced raw fish, such as salmon or tuna, and sprinkle with symbolic toppings like chopped peanuts, sesame seeds, and crispy crackers.

The ingredients in yusheng are quite malleable, meaning that different variations of the dish can be made based on personal preferences or regional traditions.

Each ingredient often carries its own symbolic meaning related to prosperity, health, and happiness. For example, while raw fish represents abundance and wealth, golden crackers, which add a beautiful crunch to the dish, are visually symbolic of gold itself.

Tossing yusheng

Yusheng is more than just a dish; it’s a communal celebration. The tradition reaches its crescendo when diners mix and toss the ingredients into the air before eating, symbolizing the cleansing and ushering in of good fortune.

As the ingredients fly, it’s customary to shout auspicious phrases like “nian nian you yu”, wishing for prosperity and abundance in the year ahead. The louder the cheers and the higher the toss, the greater the fortune that’s believed to follow.

This lively communal tradition transforms yusheng into a cultural celebration, not just a seasonal dish, during the Lunar New Year.